The Last Ice Merchant

The Last Ice Merchant is from Ecuador. He is Baltazar Ushca

Climbing Ilinizas

Day 3 & 4 - 3rd acclimatization climb: To Illiniza Norte, 5126 meters Again, we leave Quito in the morning. We should be heading toward a place called La Virgen. However Annette's son is sick ... stomach ache ... I think. Hence on the way, Frank, the mountain guide took a detour to a hotel where the son and Annette and her friend Brigette stayed behind instead of going climbing with us. After dropping them off, we go to a nearby town, buy some food for the next 2 days, have lunch, then drive to La Virgen, the start of the climb. Frank had hired a guy with a horse earlier on. We meet up there. The guy took our heavy plastic climbing boots and the food, rides off by himself to a hut called Refugio Nuevos Horizontes (4700 meters) 

where we'll be staying for the night. Frank, and the driver together with Josh and I then take a pleasant 2 and a quarter hours hike up to the Refugio ... minus the weight of the heavy boots. I am very impressed by the Refuge system in Ecuador. Each hut has at least one housekeeper stationed there to look after the place. This keeps the hut well maintained. Usually the guy stays there for a week, then rotates out for a week of rest etc. It is cold in this mountain. Well, the altitude is high. But the Refuge Nuevos Horizontes has a wood heater which keeps us reasonably warm. Next day, we are up early and are on our way at 4am. The ground is icy. It gets treacherously slippery further up, especially when, nearer to the summit, we get to the ridge with steep drop off on both sides. We are all roped together for safety. Three and a half hours later, at 7:30am, we reach the summit. We are inside the clouds, with light snow falling, hence it is a white out. All I can see is a cross at the summit which is a sharp peak with standing room for one person only. After taking some photos, we climb down a different but quicker route through loose screes back to our car. After picking up Annette, her son and Brigette, we drive to Hotel Cuello de Luna near Cotopaxi National Park for the night. Tomorrow, we'll start our 2-day climb of Cotopaxi. To the pictures ... I don't have many meaningful pics as both days are white out inside the clouds. That is a pity as otherwise the mountain scenes would be very beautiful. (To enlarge a photo, click on it.) 1.) Illiniza Norte is the peak on the right of this pic, 5126 meters. Takes 2 days to climb it. The white peak on the left is Illiniza Sur, slightly higher at 5248 meters, and harder to climb due to its glacial nature.

Climb Iliniza north

ILINIZA NORTH   5126m (16817 ft) TWO DAYS CLIMB 

Climbing Ilinizas north

DESCRIPTION 

Ilinizas North  is located about 57km (34 miles) Southwest of Quito. Originally, there was one volcano, which exploded in a massive eruption that split the mountain in half a very long time ago. The two peaks are separated by a saddle and are about 2 km away from one another. There is a small refuge between the two peaks: This 2 days climb start at night from the refuge Nuevos Horizontes at an altitude of 4700m (15330 ft).North Iliniza is rocky and It'smuch easier in summer, but becomes technical when there is snow. Iliniza north is the eighth highest volcano in Ecuador.   We offer a professional bilingual guide, Mountain.

ITINERARY  

Day 1: Quito 2800m  - Refuge Ilinizas Nuevos Horizontes  4700m 
We'll leave Quito 9:00 a.m, heading south through the Avenue of the Volcanoes. During the tour will pass through the town of Machachi, as well as the beautiful village Chaupi (Town of small agricultural plots) to reach the Virgen Parking Lot (3900m). From here we will hike to the shelter (2 to 3 hours) where we will have lunch and rest. There is an optional afternoon walk around the shelter; we will then have 6:30 pm dinner and overnight stay. (BL, D) 

Day 2: Refugio Nuevos Horizontes - Sumit   Iliniza north 5126m

We will wake up 5:00 am to eat breakfast and then ascend the North Iliniza Peak, on the way to the summit we will enjoy both beautiful scenery as well as the adventure of rock climbing still suitable for those with little experience. Upon arriving at the summit, you will be able to see unique landscapes and other prominent volcanoes. We will then return to the refuge for a little rest and return to El Chaupi for eat lunch in High Andes café. Return to Quito   (B, BL)